Pause and Wander

Dates: December 1–3, 2025

Places:

Elephants World Sanctuary

Erawan National Park

Ayutthaya

Bangkok, Thailand

The second half of our time in Bangkok unfolded under a quiet but persistent hum of uncertainty. We were still waiting on Vietnam visas for Arya, Finlee, and Shaina after realizing we had messed up their applications, and while nothing was officially wrong yet, everything felt provisional. We were doing our best to distract ourselves, to enjoy Thailand fully rather than hover over inboxes, and to make the most of days that suddenly felt both precious and precarious.

That mindset probably explains why we packed so much into December 1.

We climbed into a private minivan before sunrise and headed west toward Elephants World, an elephant sanctuary outside Kanchanaburi that focuses on caring for older, injured, and rescued elephants who can no longer work in logging or tourism. The emphasis here is on feeding, bathing, and taking care of the elephants, and explicitly eschews riding them.  From the beginning the place felt thoughtful and calm rather than performative.

Our guide was fantastic. Maxell forgot to write his name down and still cannot remember it, so we will call him Ming, a warm and funny guide originally from Burma. We were grouped with about 15 people and given a short orientation that covered both the mission of the sanctuary and how not to get accidentally flattened. The rules were simple and practical. Do not walk directly behind an elephant because they might step backward, and 3,500 kilograms on your foot would end the day quickly. Do not touch their underside for the same reason. And do not take food away once an elephant has been given it, even if it drops, because they might think you are stealing and try to reclaim it. Other than that, we were free to touch their faces, ears, heads, necks, and front shoulders.

Then the elephants walked right up to us.

We fed them sweet potatoes and watermelon under a shaded pavilion, and it was immediately clear how remarkable their trunks are. They reached out, sniffed, felt, and curled the tips around food with astonishing precision. Arya surprised us by being timid at first, which was unexpected given how brave she usually is. Finlee surprised us even more by doing the exact opposite. Our child who is usually afraid of butterflies walked straight up and started feeding elephants confidently from the beginning, no hesitation at all.

Next we were handed machetes and loaded into the back of a truck to head into a grassy field, where our job was to cut grass for the elephants. This wouldn’t pass muster as a kid-friendly activity back home, and honestly it barely did in the Thai countryside. But the guides gladly gave our tiny humans rusty machetes and sent them out into the field! We hacked down tall grasses, gathered it in by the armful, and carried it back to another group of eager pachyderms. We laid the grass out in front of the elephants while they reached, grabbed, and munched as we stood close enough for photos. Turning your back on an animal that massive while its trunk sweeps around you is a strange mix of trust and adrenaline.

From there we moved to a mud pit and scooped up thick, clay-rich mud, smearing it over the elephants’ trunks, faces, legs, and sides. They seemed to love it. Watching animals that enormous relax while we gave them what amounted to a spa treatment was quietly magical. Once sufficiently muddied, we walked them down to a nearby river, grabbed small push brooms, and scrubbed them clean. This was one of the most peaceful moments of the day. You could see the relaxation in their faces as cool water ran over their skin.

That calm did not last.

At a spoken command from the guides, the elephants suddenly began storing water in their trunks and blasting it back at us like they were armed with Super Soaker 5000s. We were soaked, laughing, and completely caught off guard.

Elephants are wonderful creatures. Gentle, expressive, massive, and surprisingly playful. Being able to touch them, care for them, and spend real time alongside them felt special in a way that is hard to put into words.

Elephant time ended, but lunch began, and it did not disappoint. Fried chicken wings, noodles, vegetables, rice, curry, and ice-cold Beer Chang shared with our new friends made for a perfect finish. Then it was back into the van for about an hour-long drive to Erawan National Park.

Erawan is famous for its seven-tiered waterfall system, named after the three-headed white elephant of Hindu mythology. We hiked what must’ve been the longest 2 kilometers ever, uphill alongside a river that cascaded through pool after pool of teal green water. The mineral-rich water has created striking limestone formations and smooth terraced basins that look almost unreal. It is an absolute dream for photography. With steady hands and a long exposure, the water turns silky and the results feel postcard-perfect.

Unfortunately, timing worked against us. Just as we reached the upper levels, access started closing. It felt like we had only 17 seconds to explore before we were being ushered back down. Arya and Finlee were especially disappointed that there was no time to swim beneath the waterfalls, which had been what they were most excited about. They got quick dip under their belts before the park rangers herded everyone back toward waiting vehicles, and while the visit was undeniably beautiful, we would not recommend pairing Elephants and Erawan in the same day unless the goal is simply to check boxes rather than explore deeply.

We still had a 3.5-hour drive back to Bangkok ahead of us. Everyone slept for at least part of the ride. We returned to the Airbnb just after 8:00 pm, completely spent and ready for bed, especially knowing that tomorrow’s next adventure would start at 7:00 in the morning.

December 2 arrived early.

Alarms went off at 6:00 and we moved the troops with just enough efficiency to be ready for our pickup. Today’s plan was a day trip north to Ayutthaya, the ancient capital of Thailand and one of the most historically significant sites in the country. We met our guide, Kevin, at 7:30 and immediately dove into the organized chaos of Bangkok traffic before heading about 80 kilometers north. From 1350 until its destruction by the Burmese in 1767, Ayutthaya was the royal capital of Siam and one of the wealthiest cities in the world, a hub of diplomacy and trade connecting Asia with Europe, China, and the Middle East.

Our first stop was the Bang Pa In Royal Palace, the former summer palace of Thai kings. The grounds were immaculate, but the architecture was an unexpected mix of Thai, Western European, and Chinese styles. Classical columns stood beside pagoda roofs and ornate bridges, all sharing the same space. It felt less like a single cohesive vision and more like a royal architectural sampler platter.

Next we visited Wat Chaiwatthanaram, one of the most iconic temples in Ayutthaya. Built in the 17th century, it was designed in a Khmer-inspired style and once served as both a religious center and a royal cremation site. Today it feels like forgotten jungle ruins dropped into modern Thailand. Brick stupas and prang towers rise from manicured lawns, and rows of headless Buddha statues line the courtyards. Traces of original plaster still cling to the brick, hinting at how grand it once was.

From there we continued to Wat Mahathat, another important temple complex that once housed sacred relics of the Buddha. The grounds were more open, and this was where the heat really began to assert itself. At 93°F, temple exploration becomes less about reflection and more about endurance. We all started melting into sticky, tired versions of ourselves.

Kevin recognized the signs and wisely took us to lunch along the river. Ayutthaya sits at the confluence of four rivers, which historically made it both defensible and commercially powerful. We ate right on the water, cooled off slightly, and aggressively overate. It was exactly what we needed, even if it would later slow us down.

Our final stop was Wat Phra Sri Sanphet, once the most important temples within the royal palace grounds and reserved exclusively for royal ceremonies. The three large chedis that remain are among the most recognizable images of Ayutthaya. They were still impressive, but by this point it was ninety-something degrees, we were uncomfortably full, and our enthusiasm was running on fumes.

Kevin did a solid job explaining each site, though he did not quite reach the gold standard set by Lexi in Madrid. Still, sometimes a steady, competent guide is all you need when the sun is relentless.

The ride back to Bangkok was quiet. We all disappeared into our books. Arya is deep into the Mistborn series by Brandon Sanderson, a fantasy saga built around a detailed magic system and morally complex characters living in a world shaped by oppression and rebellion. This feels like a milestone for her. The story is more mature, the characters more layered, and she is loving how real they feel despite the magic. Mistborn was formative for Shaina and Maxell’s love of fantasy, and watching it land the same way for Arya feels like a quiet passing of the torch.

Back in Bangkok, we stopped at a mall food court. The girls grabbed fried chicken while Maxell opted out, still full from lunch. Wandering the mall felt familiar and strange at the same time. The structure is the same as home, but the details are different. Cinnabon gives way to crispy chicken feet. Sbarro pizza is replaced by Korean barbecue. Another long day wrapped up, and once we got home, sleep came quickly and without resistance.

December 3 arrived with a very different energy.

This was the moment of truth. We needed the final Vietnam visas approved or we were headed for trouble again. Missi and Maxell had received approvals a few days earlier, but we eventually realized we had made a critical mistake with Shaina’s application. Arya and Finlee had been included on the same form, which is only allowed when children are listed on a parent’s passport rather than holding individual passports of their own. The instructions were confusing, and something was clearly lost in translation, but by the time we understood the error we were cutting it very close.

At 7:00 am, the waiting began.

We checked email compulsively every 15 minutes. Nothing at 8:00. Nothing at 9:00. By 10:00, we were no longer calm. Stress was high, patience was gone, and contingency planning kicked in. We started looking at Airbnbs in Bangkok and scanning flights, assuming we might need to extend our stay and hope the approvals came through in time. It was turning into a full-blown cluster.

Then, at 10:27 am, Maxell received Arya’s visa approval. Two minutes earlier, Shaina had received hers and Finlee’s.

Just like that, the pressure vanished.

With the stress released, it felt right to do something grounding. With no real plan and a quick check-in with ChatGPT, we set out toward Wat Pho, just south of the Royal Palace. Wat Pho is one of Bangkok’s oldest and most important temples and is considered the birthplace of traditional Thai massage. It is also home to one of the most famous religious images in Thailand.

The Reclining Buddha is enormous, stretching 46 meters long and covered in gold leaf. The statue represents the Buddha at the moment of entering nirvana, and standing in front of it feels both humbling and surreal. Beyond the main hall, Wat Pho unfolds into a maze of smaller temples, stupas, shrines, fountains, and endless rows of Buddha statues. For something that had not even been on our radar that morning, it turned out to be one of our favorite temple visits in Thailand.

From there, hunger took over. We walked to a nearby restaurant called The Sixth, chosen simply because it was the first thing that popped up in a search. Shrimp cakes, papaya salad, pineapple cashew chicken, and sticky rice fulfilled our every desire, and we were exactly full enough to justify what came next.

Thai massages in Chinatown.

We returned to the same spot where we had successfully haggled foot and leg massages earlier in the week, and they took care of us once again. The girls, Shaina, and Missi shared one room, while Maxell ended up alone, though the walls were thin enough that privacy was theoretical. Every time a stretch went a little too far and Maxell squealed like a pig, Arya and Finlee burst into laughter and asked why daddy was so sensitive. Revenge came swiftly when the masseuses started popping the girls’ toes. The resulting shrieks may have been heard downstairs, but justice was served.

After 60 mostly blissful minutes, we stepped back out into the chaos of Yaowarat Road. While wandering, we stumbled upon what may be the best gelato any of us has ever had at Hey Gelato. The shop is run by an Australian named Tom, who appears to operate like a culinary mad scientist. Flavors included jasmine green tea and toasted mung bean, but the standout was passionfruit chili. Bright, spicy, sweet, and completely unforgettable.

And just like that, our Thailand pivot came to an end.

This had been a completely unplanned eight-day detour that started with us scrambling in a Turkish airport at 3:00 am, trying to figure out what to do next. We mostly stayed in Bangkok with a few side trips, but for something that was never meant to happen at all, it turned into something special. Elephants, ancient ruins, temples, incredible food, and a lot of laughter layered over a steady undercurrent of logistics and uncertainty.

The pressure built, peaked, and finally released, leaving us with one last calm exhale before moving on. With visas approved and bags nearly packed, we closed out Thailand grateful that what started as a problem became a memory worth keeping.

Vietnam, here we come!